Update from Provence – the best of the Bouches-du-Rhone

When Provence beckons, it lures with a combination of serene beauty, gracious people, delectable food, and refreshing wines. What better combination for the avid wine traveler? One of the more delightful parts of Provence, the Bouches-du-Rhone, stretches southwest from Avignon, incorporating such gems as Les Baux de Provence, Maussane, Paradou, Fontvieille, St. Remy-de-Provence, Eygalières, and the ancient Roman city of Arles. On a recent visit we used a restored farmhouse in Eygalières as our base. We found the local vineyards flourishing and expanding, and a host of recommendations for places to stay and dine. Part one of our review and recommendations follows, with more information on the area to come next month.

Wines: Lots of money and effort has recently gone into wineries in and around Eygalières, and it has paid off. The reds, whites, and rosés remain a top value, with excellent quality and modest prices. Domaine de la Vallongue (www.vallongue.com) continues to make refreshing whites and excellent, full-bodied reds. The tasting room is cozy and friendly, and the staff eager to share their wines and excellent olive oil with you. Domaine de Valdition (www.valdition.com) just a few kilometers from the center of town on the Route d'Orgon (D24B), has evolved into an impressive winery with several reds and whites that match up well with the best of the region, plus excellent olive oil. There is a modern tasting room next to the estate house with a wide selection of wines, oil, and other regional products – well worth a visit. Other wines worth a try or visit are Domaine Costebonne, also on the Route d'Orgon just past the Chapel of Saint Sixte, and Val de L'Oule, just a bit further on. Don't overlook the rosés from this area. They're crisp, balanced, and refreshing. As the weather turned warmer, we increasingly found ourselves opting for a chilled rosé. All these wines are excellent values, with retail prices in the 10-20 Euro range. With wines this good and affordable, there's little need to venture further on local wine lists.

Where to stay: While Eygalières is tiny – just 900 people and one main street – we found three attractive and very different choices in accommodations, all just a short distance outside the town proper. Maison Bru, (www.chezbru.com) is the posh digs opened by Michelin-starred chef Wout Bru and his wife Suzy just a few kilometers from the town on the Route d'Orgon. It's ultra-chic and ultra-modern, with all the amenities you could wish for, plus terrific food. A bit further down the Route you'll find Mas de la Rose (www.mas-rose.com), more in the traditional Provençal style, but no less luxurious (or expensive). Just outside Eygalières in the other direction on D74A is Mas de la Brune (www.masdelabrune.com), a charming, restored 16th-century mansion set on manicured grounds. It reeks of old-world charm and comfort. Pick what suits you: modern and chic, sun-baked Provençal, or a centuries-old castle. All are delightful, each with its own cachet. Check them out.

Dining: Provençal cooking is based on vibrant tastes from fresh local produce, fish, and poultry. Olive oil is used rather than butter, keeping dishes light. While there are attractive dining choices everywhere in this little corner of Provence, here are the ones that topped our list on this trip. After visiting the Abbaye de Senanque, one of the most-photographed attractions in the area with its fields of Lavender set in a tranquil valley, we headed to the nearby "perched village" of Gordes for lunch. The food at La Bastide de Gordes (www.bastide-de-gordes.com) was as spectacular as the views from the hotel that houses it, a five-star property with spa set on the cliffside of Gordes. Also nearby, in the charming village of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, we had a memorable meal at Café Fleurs (www.cafefleurs.com) set just off a peaceful park and one of the branches of the Sorgues river that flow through this village. Dining on the terrace was relaxing, the menu and food excellent, and the service cordial. Closer to Eygalières, in nearby Molleges, we were finally able to get a lunch table at the local favorite, Mas du Capoun (www.masducapoun.com), and it was worth the wait. The food was delectable, the service warm and professional, and the price astoundingly affordable. We'll definitely go back.

Despite its miniscule size, Eygalières boasts several excellent restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Chez Bru (www.chezbru.com). Although not strictly Provençal, you won't hear many complaints about the menu, which is laden with imaginative, perfectly-prepared dishes. This level of food comes at a price, but it's worth a splurge for food this good. In town, there are three attractive options that will be a bit kinder to the wallet. Sous les Micocoulieres (www.souslesmiccoulieres.com) is just a few meters off the main street in an old house with expansive, tree-shaded terrace. The food here is excellent, midday dining on the terrace idyllic, and the service personable. Bistro l'Aubergine (www.laubergine-eygalieres.com) skillfully combines Provençal and Italian influences to craft an appealing menu. The wine list is well chosen, focusing on top local selections, and a shaded terrace and friendly service make this one of our favorites. Relatively new to the town is the tiny La Petite Table (www.la-petite-table-eygalieres.com), which has rapidly earned top marks for food and service. Our lunch there was delightful, with a creative menu, spot-on preparation, and friendly service. Only a few more choices on the wine list could have improved it, something that is no doubt coming.

We can recommend all of our choices without reservation, and there's a lot to see and do in this region, so make plans now to visit. If you need help, get in touch. Next month we'll list our choices of places to stay and dine in St. Remy, Les Baux, Mausanne, and more.

A taste of France: monkfish with prosciutto

In France, this tasty appetizer goes by the name Lotte with Jambon de Bayonne, but the ingredients will be easier to find if you use U.S. names.

1 lb monkfish filet
¼ lb thinly sliced prosciutto
Fresh lemon juice
Olive oil
Fresh ground pepper

When you get monkfish from your fishmonger, it will likely already have its skin removed, but underneath the skin lays a thin membrane that is often left behind. If cooked on the fish, it will become tough and impart a bad flavor. Removing the membrane is a fairly straightforward process that only requires a sharp knife to accomplish.

Cut the monkfish filet lengthwise into strips roughly 1-½ inches wide, and then cut into two-inch bites. Wrap each piece with prosciutto and place on sheet pan. Squeeze fresh lemon over the bites, drizzle with good olive oil, and grind fresh black pepper over them.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees, and place sheet pan on middle rack for 5-6 minutes. Turn bites and return to oven for another 5-6 minutes until fish is cooked through. Remove from oven, and serve with fresh lemon juice and good French mustard – Amora is our choice, not readily available in the U.S., but you can get online at Simply Gourmand (www.simplygourmand.com).

Monkfish is not widely available throughout the U.S., but we have found an excellent online source in Charleston Seafood www.charlestonseafood.com. They are a reliable source for high-quality seafood of all types, with excellent customer service.

Exclusive offer from Sonoma's Hotel Les Mars and Chalk Hill Estate

A special package awaits those booking two-night stays at Les Mars through October 2011. The Ultimate Wine Country Experience features a unique 2-½ hour culinary adventure at Chalk Hill Estate featuring a guided tour of the estate's organic gardens, vineyards, and the Estate Pavilion Conservatory. The tour concludes with a sit-down guided wine tasting paired with delectable small plates and a signature gift. Your stay also includes an afternoon wine and cheese reception, one 60-minute couple's spa treatment, and French continental breakfast for two. These two-night stay offers are available through October 2011 starting at $1,525 weekdays and $1,725 weekends, excluding service fees and taxes. For details, call 707.433.4211, or visit www.hotelesmars.com

Two special packages at L'Auberge Carmel

L'Auberge Carmel is offering 30-percent off rack rates for weekday stays in September booked by August 31st. Rates include Aubergine's Signature breakfast. The Sommelier's Choice Wine Tasting Package features a one-night stay, a four-course prix fixe dinner for two at Aubergine with wine pairings, a wine gift box with three specially-selected wines, a private wine tasting, and Aubergine's Signature breakfast. Rates begin at $1,045 mid-week and $1,095 on weekends through October 2011. Two night minimums may apply on weekends. Additional service fees and taxes apply. For details and reservations, call 831.624.8578 or e-mail reservations@laubergecarmel.com

Save $3,200 on a Dry Creek Vineyards Windstar cruise when you book by August 31

Dry Creek Vineyards has scheduled an appealing eight-day sailing excursion with Windstar, departing Istanbul, Turkey October 1st, and arriving Athens, Greece October 7th, with stops in idyllic and historical destinations like Rhodes, Santorini, and Mykonos. In addition to historic sightseeing and shore excursions, the cruise will also feature wines and fine dining. Bookings by August 31st will save $3,200 per couple. For reservations and information, call Marcia and Hath Watson at 888.946.3885.

Let Slow Foods introduce you to Piedmont and Parma

Slow Foods, the international organization devoted to promoting and preserving regional cuisine and sustainable agriculture, is having a six-day Italian food and wine tour highlighting Piedmont – home of Barolo wine and truffles, and Parma where the best in cheese, prosciutto, and vinegar is to be found. Participants will enjoy private sit-down wine tastings, a visit to the truffle market in Alba, lunch at an artisan cheese farm, cooking lessons, and visits to artisan makers of Parmesan cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, and Balsamic vinegars. For the full itinerary, prices, and more information, visit the La Dolce Vita Wine tours site: http://dolcetours.com/wine-tours-italy-parma-overview.php

Summer wine specials that can save you money

Summer has brought some great specials from leading vineyards that can put great wines on your tables at exceptional prices. In some cases, you need to be a member of their wine club to take advantage of the pricing:

The KJ Wine Clubs are offering a broad range of summer specials – top wines at outstanding pricing. For details, visit www.kj.com/wine-clubs

Adelsheim has released its 2009 Elizabeth's Reserve Pinot Noir. Priced at $55.00 per bottle, plus shipping, with discounts for six and 12 bottle purchases. A limited quantity of 1.5L magnums are available at $120.00 per bottle. Call 503.538.3652 or order online at http://store.adelsheim.com/2009-elizabeths-reserve-pinot-noir-p169.aspx

Dry Creek Vineyard is offering a "Back to School" special, a two-pack of award-winning 2007 Meritage and 2008 Foggy Oaks Chardonnay for $31.00, a 35-percent savings. For purchases of six or more two-packs shipping is included. For information or to order, call 800.864.9463 x106.

Duckhorn is offering a summer case sale, with 20 percent off on any mix-and-match case of select wines. To order, go to www.duckhornwineshop.com and click on Summer Case Sale.

Grgich Hills Estate is offering a 30-percent discount on its Founder's Day Six Pack, with three bottles each of their 2008 Chardonnay and their limited production 2007 Carneros Selection Chardonnay. Orders will ship with overnight delivery but purchasers will be charged the standard 2nd day shipping rate. Check it out at www.grgich.com

WIllaKenzie Vineyards is now offering several new releases, 2010 Pinot Gris, and four 2008 Pinot Noirs that rate over 90 points with the Wine Spectator. Contact them at 888.953.9463 or online at www.willakenzie.com